The Boss Laser Order Checklist: How to Get Your Files Right the First Time

When to Use This Checklist (And When You Don't Need It)

I've been handling laser cutting and engraving orders for our shop for about six years now. I've personally made (and documented) at least a dozen significant file submission mistakes, totaling roughly $2,800 in wasted material and machine time. Now I maintain this checklist for our team to prevent others from repeating my errors.

This checklist is for you if:

• You're about to send vector files to a laser service (like Boss Laser) for cutting or engraving.
• You're working on a paid order, not just a personal test piece.
• You're using materials thicker than 1/8" or more expensive than basic plywood.

If you're just doing a quick test on scrap material, you can probably skip a few steps. But for anything that costs real money or has a deadline, run through this list. It takes 10 minutes and has saved us from way more than 10 minutes of headache.

My experience is based on maybe 200 mid-range orders with materials like acrylic, hardwood, and anodized aluminum. If you're working with ultra-thin materials, textiles, or food-grade items, your specific requirements might differ.

The Pre-Submission Checklist (7 Steps)

Step 1: Verify Your "Cut" and "Engrave" Layers Are Separate

This is the single most common mistake. Your design software (like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDRAW) needs to tell the laser what to cut through and what to just mark the surface of.

• Action: Open your Layers panel. You should have at least two layers: one named something like "CUT" and one named "ENGRAVE" or "SCORE."
• Checkpoint: Turn off the visibility of your "CUT" layer. You should only see the engraving lines/shades. Then turn off the "ENGRAVE" layer. You should only see the outline of the parts to be cut out.
• The Mistake I Made: In September 2022, I sent a file for engraved coasters where the decorative border was on the same layer as the cut outline. The laser tried to cut along every single decorative line. $240 worth of walnut, straight to the scrap bin. That's when I learned to always separate layers before doing anything else.

Step 2: Check That All Cut Lines Are Actually Continuous

What looks like a closed shape on your screen might be a series of tiny, unconnected lines to the laser. A break of even 0.001 inches will prevent a clean cut.

• Action: Use your software's "Join" or "Close Path" function on every cut line. In Illustrator, select all cut paths and go to Object > Path > Join.
• Checkpoint: Zoom in to at least 1600% on a corner of your design. Look for gaps or overlapping nodes. The line should be one smooth, continuous path.

Step 3: Convert All Text to Outlines (Paths)

If you submit a file with live text, and the service bureau doesn't have the exact font you used, the laser software will substitute it. The result is often misaligned, garbled text.

• Action: Select all text objects. In Illustrator: Type > Create Outlines. In CorelDRAW: Arrange > Convert to Curves.
• Checkpoint: After converting, try to highlight the text with the text tool. You shouldn't be able to—it should now be just a shape.

Step 4: Set the Correct Line Color and Stroke Weight

This is the step most people gloss over, but it's how the laser driver software (like LightBurn or RDWorks) interprets your file. Different colors can be assigned to different power/speed settings.

• Action: Standardize your line colors. A common convention is:
  • Red (RGB 255, 0, 0): For through-cuts.
  • Blue (RGB 0, 0, 255): For engraving (raster).
  • Green (RGB 0, 255, 0): For scoring or kiss-cutting.
• Action: Set all stroke weights to 0.001 pt or "Hairline." Any thicker line might be interpreted as an area to engrave, not a path to cut.
• Checkpoint: Select all objects and look at your stroke panel. Everything should be "Hairline."

Step 5: Remove Duplicate or Hidden Lines

Accidentally having two identical cut lines on top of each other is surprisingly easy. The laser will cut the same line twice, which can burn the material, cause warping, or even break a delicate part.

• Action: Use a path-finding tool. In Illustrator, select all and use Window > Pathfinder > Merge. This combines overlapping paths.
• Checkpoint: In your layers panel, make sure there aren't any hidden layers with stray geometry. (I really should do a purge of old template layers one of these days...)

Step 6: Add Clear Job Notes in a Text Box

Don't assume the person running the laser knows what you want. Be explicit. Put this information in a text box outside of your cut area.

• Action: Include:
  1. Material type and thickness (e.g., "3mm Cast Acrylic, Clear").
  2. Quantity.
  3. Any special finish notes (e.g., "Protective masking film ON for cutting").
  4. Your name/order number.
• Why This Matters: In March 2024, we had a 50-piece acrylic order. My file didn't specify to leave the masking on. The operator peeled it, the parts got scratched in handling, and we had to redo the lot. That was a $180 lesson in communication.

Step 7: Do a "Print Preview" at 100% Scale

This is the final sanity check. It catches scaling errors that are invisible when you're zoomed in.

• Action: In your design software, go to File > Print. Set the scale to 100%. Look at the preview.
• Checkpoint: Does the design fit on the page size you specified (e.g., 24" x 12")? Are any elements weirdly stretched or squashed? This is your last chance to catch a mistake before it goes to the machine.

Common Pitfalls & What They Cost

Even with a checklist, things can go wrong. Here are the specific errors we've caught (or missed) using this process over the past 18 months.

Pitfall 1: Forgetting About Kerf

The Problem: The laser beam burns away a tiny amount of material (the "kerf"), usually 0.005" to 0.015" wide. If you design interlocking parts without accounting for this, they'll be too tight or won't fit at all.

The Fix: For precise fits, use software (like MakerCase) that automatically adds kerf compensation. Or, manually offset your cut lines inward by half the kerf width. If you're not sure, ask your service provider for their recommended kerf value for your material.

"We paid a $400 rush fee to re-cut a set of intricate puzzle pieces because the original design didn't account for kerf. The alternative was missing the delivery deadline for a $15,000 corporate gift project. In that case, the premium for a fast, correct redo was absolutely worth it."

Pitfall 2: Raster vs. Vector Engraving Confusion

The Problem: This is an industry terminology thing that trips people up. "Raster" engraving is like an inkjet printer—the laser head goes back and forth, shading an area. "Vector" engraving (or scoring) follows a line, like a cut but shallower. Sending a detailed logo meant for raster as a vector file will result in just a thin outline.

The Fix: Be clear in your notes. Say "Please raster engrave the shaded logo area" or "Vector engrave the outline text." Attaching a mock-up image of the desired result is always helpful.

Pitfall 3: File Format Issues

Honestly, I'm not sure why some shops prefer .DXF and others .AI or .PDF. My best guess is it depends on their workflow and software version.

• Safe Bet: Send two files in your submission: a native .AI or .CDR file (with layers intact) and a flattened .PDF for reference. This covers almost all bases.
• Never send: .JPEG, .PNG, or .GIF for cutting jobs. These are pixel-based and can't create a clean cut path.

Following this list isn't glamorous, but it works. We've caught 47 potential file errors using it, saving thousands in material and preserving our reputation for getting things right. Now, go check those layers.